More grains of knowledge sing proudly in these pages, and you’d do worse than spending a day by the beach absorbing it. If you haven’t listened to his How I Built This Podcast, you should. It’s not every day that a surfer/climber builds one of the most widely respected and socially responsible businesses on earth.
Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman by Yvon Chouinard Finnegan ties in sociopolitical stirrings, personal triumphs and failures, and their relationship to the lingering guilt of the surfer: our uselessness when compared with a life much larger than the ocean. Beyond reawakening in me a committed surf lust, I thoroughly enjoyed his writing. Unfortunately, I haven’t had that luxury since childhood. I longed for a moment where I am once again totally consumed by a wave. Finnegan writes about how the obsession to chase surf waxes and wanes through a lifetime, and I could very much relate. The New Yorker columnist drops no shortage of ten-dollar words, which can be obnoxious at times (we get it, you’re smart!), but getting better acquainted with the English language is a good thing. Finnegan’s intimate descriptions of getting acquainted with waves, the cultures around them, and the relationships that drove his life forward are riveting. If you’re a surfer and you appreciate strong writing, this book is well worth your time. Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan
The 12 Best Surf Books for Kids Get your children stoked on surfing and reading with these nine awesome kids books about surfing.
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